Monday, March 31, 2014

What I’ve Learned in Ukraine

Who are Ukrainians? Are they Ukrainian speakers? Are they Russian speakers? Maybe they’re speakers of Surzhyk, a Ukrainian/Russian hybrid language, most prevalently spoken in a wide swath of central Ukraine. Or maybe Ukrainians can’t be defined based on their language as easily as the maps presented in newscasts would have us believe.

Ukraine is also culturally diverse: some eastern Ukrainians identify with Russia, while others consider themselves Ukrainian. In Crimea there is a sizable population of Muslim Tatars. (They were actually a majority of Crimea’s population until Stalin sent most of them to Central Asia in the 1940s.) In western Ukraine there are Hutsuls, Boikos and Lemkos, distinct ethnic groups living in the Carpathian Mountains. There are also sizable populations of Romanians, Moldovans, Hungarians, and Bulgarians living in areas along the western borders of the country. So Ukraine is a bit of a melting pot. Perhaps Ukraine draws strength from its diversity the same way we do in the United States?

Who Ukrainians are, or who Ukrainians think they are, was put on display beginning November 21, 2013. Ukraine was supposed to sign an “Association Agreement” with the European Union. This agreement would have strengthened political and economic ties between Ukraine and the European Union, and it would have been an important milestone marking the work that many Ukrainians have been undertaking to improve their country.

Instead, President Yanukovitch backed out of the agreement at the last minute. People streamed in from across Ukraine to protest. In the weeks after the government spurned the Association Agreement, hundreds of thousands of Ukrainians stood in Independence Square in central Kyiv, known locally as the Maidan, to protest the decision their government had made. One Sunday an estimated one million people showed up in downtown Kyiv to voice their displeasure with their government and show solidarity with their countrymen. (For a breathtaking areal view of the size of protests, watch this YouTube video.) Ukraine’s population is around 46 million, so a similarly-sized demonstration in the US would include over six million people!

Protesters have included students, grandmothers, veterans, families, Orthodox clergy, Jews, nationalists, Russian speakers, business owners, famous musicians, and lawyers. Even some of Ukraine’s notorious oligarchs supported the protests. In short, a broad cross section of Ukrainians from every social and economic class has been involved in demanding a better future for Ukraine. This is certainly not the rabble composed of terrorists, extremists and fascists claimed by some world leaders.

Many protesters have stood on the Maidan day and night, weathering the frigid Ukrainian winter. They stood on the Maidan even after being attacked by riot police in November. And December. And January. And again in February. The protesters continued to stand on the square in peaceful dignity, pushing back only enough to continue the protests. They even stood in the cold wearing colanders on their heads to protest against laws passed limiting free speech and peaceful protest (which, among other things, made it illegal to wear bicycle helmets). The words Слава Україні! (Glory to Ukraine!) echoed across Kyiv, even as they froze in the icy night air enveloping the Maidan.

When snipers began shooting protesters last February, Ukrainians stood as one, refusing to be cowed into submission so the government could steal more of the country’s riches. As protesters were picked off one by one (the youngest was 17 and had only been on the Maidan for an hour) the crowd roared with one voice: “Слава Україні! Героям слава! (Glory to Ukraine! Glory to the heroes!). And what began as a whisper in the night swelled to a roar that has reverberated across the globe: You won’t steal our money, our lives nor our dignity! We are Ukrainians, and we demand responsible government and a better life!

As Americans we can surely identify with these ideals and the demand for a government that is answerable to the people it governs. The Founding Fathers enshrined them in the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution.

This is what Ukraine has taught me: quiet strength, patience, perseverance and tolerance give a country the strength its needs to stand up to seemingly insurmountable obstacles and tragic challenges. I hope that my efforts as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Ukraine have given something to my community, but in my heart, I know that what Ukrainians gave me in return was so much more.

Thank you, Ukraine.

Слава Україні! Героям слава!

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