Sunday, August 31, 2014

A Brief History of Guyana

It’s probably long past time for this post, seeing as how we’ve been in this country for over four months, but I thought it might be a good idea to outline the basics of Guyanese history to provide a sense of the country’s identity.

To begin with, the Guyanese describe their country as “The Land of Six Peoples.” This is a reference to the distinct ethnic groups that have made their home in Guyana over the centuries. The original inhabitants were Amerindians belonging to some thirty different tribes. Only nine of these tribes are still in existence, including the Caribs and the Arawaks. Amerindians were the sole inhabitants of the land now known as Guyana for thousands of years until Europeans (beginning with the Spanish) set foot on the territory in 1498.

Although the first Europeans to see Guyana were Spanish, the first settlers were Dutch. They constructed the first European fort on the Mazaruni River, a tributary of the Essequibo River (one of three major rivers flowing into the Atlantic from the interior of Guyana) and named it Fort Kyk-Over-Al. The name means “view of everything” in Dutch and describes the commanding view from the fort, whose ruins are today a major tourist attraction. Five years after its construction, the Dutch brought in the first African slaves to work the lucrative sugar plantations, initiating a period of slavery that would last for the following two centuries.


These two centuries were a tumultuous time for the territory, which changed hands between the Dutch and English multiple times, often involving alliances with Amerindian tribes. African slave uprisings occurred periodically as well. The most successful occurred in 1768 when slaves staged a major revolt and held parts of Guyana for 131 days before European slaveholders reestablished control. The rebellion is commemorated in Georgetown by a monument honoring Cuffy, one of the revolt’s leaders.
Statue of Cuffy, leader of a slave revolt in 1768 that lasted 131 days.
In 1814 the British once again assumed control of “British Guiana” through the treaty of Vienna. Twenty years later all slaves in British-held territories were freed, three decades before the corresponding action would be taken in the U.S. after a bloody civil war. Following a four-year term of apprenticeship, former slaves became Afro-Guyanese, the next of the “Six Nations,” on August 1, 1838. This day is celebrated as a national holiday in Guyana (as well as in other former British territories). In Mabaruma Compound, the center of our village where the regional hospital, police station, Department of Education offices and the regional administration can all be found, Emancipation Day was marked by a day off work and the absolute quiet that reigns in the Compound when government offices are not open.

In place of the system of slavery that existed prior to emancipation, a new system of indentured servitude took over, which brought people from India, China, Portugal, and even Africa. The arrival of the first indentured servants from India on May 5, 1838, just months before the end of the apprenticeship program for former slaves, is now celebrated as another national holiday. We got a glimpse of Indian Arrival Day during our first week in the country as we gathered for our own arrival at Splashmin’s Resort, where families gathered to swim, play games and barbeque. The indentureship program ended in 1917, and finally, 1n 1966, the country gained independence from Britain and changed the name from “British Guiana” to “Guyana.”

And so we end up with “The Land of Six Peoples,” which includes Amerindians, Afro-Guyanese, Indo-Guyanese, Chinese, Portuguese, and Europeans (a catch-all group that includes the Dutch and the English). The cultural milieu is readily visible in the facial features and complexions of Guyanese citizens, but the unique cultural mixture is also on display in the country’s cuisine: Indian curries, ubiquitous chow mien dishes, and traditional Amerindian cassava bread weave together a tasty tapestry of tropical treats!

Fun Fact: Guyana is NOT located in, on, around, proximal to, or adjacent to Africa. It’s in South America!

Fun Fact: Guyana is an English-speaking country, the only one in South America.

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